Capuns
They weren't kidding when they said there were as many versions of Capuns as there are grandmothers in Graubünden.
Capuns are basically a kind of dumpling, wrapped in greens, and simmered in milk or cream.
A quick google search will bring up numerous different recipes using not only varied fillings (all possible proportions of Bündnerfleisch or Salsiz, bacon, cheese, onions, mint, chives, parsley), but many different cooking methods as well (boil in milk, fry, simmer, oven bake...)
Although there is no agreement on filling or method, it is clear that Capuns originated in Surselva, a region in the West of the canton. Originally this was food for peasants, but now it is a specialty served in restaurants throughout the region and loved by tourists and locals alike.
Like most foods that take a bit of handiwork, it is perfect for a multi-generational meeting around the kitchen table, older generations sharing knowledge that extends far beyond the best way of wrapping the Capuns.
Wrapping Capuns takes time and patience, but before you even get to work there is the matter of the wrapping material.
Traditionally Capuns are made with a leafy green known as Schnittmangold, a once popular plant that fell out of favour as spinach asserted dominance, but has recently been making a comeback. These leaves are the perfect wrapping material for Capuns, and are available in Switzerland from about May to September. If you are using these, simply snip off the stems and start rolling.
But for those that want to make Capuns outside of this time frame, or who don’t have access to Schnittmangold, another option is to cut down Krautstiel (Swiss chard) leaves and use this instead. The Swiss chard is available from March to October, and adds an earthy flavour too.
Batter
3 eggs
200 ml milk
salt, pepper, nutmeg
300 g flour
100 g Salsiz or salami, diced
100 g Bündnerfleisch or other cured meat, diced
100 g hard cheese, grated
a few leaves of mint, oregano, parsley, thyme and/or other herbs, chopped
Whisk together the eggs, milk, and seasonings. Add the flour while whisking, and then continue to whisk until you can see the batter bubbling up. Cover and let sit for at least one hour.
Stir the meat, cheese and herbs into the batter.
To assemble:
Chard leaves (around 30 smaller Schnittmangold leaves or 6 very large chard leaves cut into 4-5 pieces each)
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. As soon as the water is boiling, dip the leaves in for a few seconds until they soften, then fish them out and gently dip them in cold water. Carefully spread out the leaves and place them on a clean tea towel.
Place a softened chard leaf in your hand and put about a tablespoon of batter on top. Fold over the two edges lengthwise, then the top and bottom. Put these bundles directly into a large ovenproof frying pan.
To cook:
250 ml chicken or vegetable stock
250 ml milk
To garnish
80 ml whipping cream
Bündnerfleisch or other cured meat, in strips
shredded hard cheese (like Sbrinz)
Preheat the oven to 200° C / 400° F / gas mark 6.
Add the stock and milk to the frying pan with the Capuns and bring to a low simmer. Cook for about 15 minutes, or until the Capuns are firm.
Pour the cream over top, sprinkle with Bündnerfleisch and cheese and put in the oven for about 15 minutes, or until the cheese has melted and the sauce is bubbling.
Feel free to experiment with the batter. Any of the following could be added:
fried onion
fried bacon
shredded hard cheese (like Sbrinz)
chopped herbs (mint, basil, rosemary, oregano, parsley, chives etc)
Although some recipes use chard leaves that are not pre-boiled, I find it nearly impossible to wrap the filling unless the leave had first been softened.
This recipe was updated on 9 August 2022 with better photos, an improved method and more information about the types of chard.
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